If the screen powers on and stays on then you have successfully soldered in the resistor! When the resistor is in place, I make sure that the solder connections are good by reattaching the bottom LCD, holding the battery in place and flicking the power switch. After installing the resistor make sure to reconnect the Wi-Fi/BIOS chip or your DS screen will just stay white! Without making this connection the DS will not boot. These 2 pads are a test point for the top LCD so by putting a load across these 2 points we can mimic the top LCD still being attached. If you’re using an SMD resistor you will want to use your tweezers to position it on top of the tinned solder pads LEDA2 and LEDC2. If you look closely at the motherboard near the “D-Pad”contacts you will see 5 gold pads that we will be using:Īfter tinning all of the pads it’s time to add the resistor. With the bottom LCD detached and put safely to one side, we can progress with installing the resistor and speakers. Lift the black tab of the connector very carefully as this is a very fragile part. Don’t forget to disconnect the digitiser cable too! This cable comes off of the top right of the bottom LCD and goes to the back of the motherboard. Similar to the top LCD connection, the bottom LCD is removed by lifting the black bar on the connector and then gently pulling the cable out. We now want to remove the bottom LCD so we don’t damage it during the next couple of steps. Once the bar has been released, you can pull the LCD cable out and separate the 2 parts of the DS. Disconnect this by lifting the small black bar with your scalpel or small flat head screwdriver. You will see that the top LCD is connected to the motherboard at the top left of the board. Now that all the cables have been disconnected, open the DS back up and push he bottom screen through. you should also remove the Wi-Fi/BIOS board and the L & R shoulder buttons. The Wi-Fi antenna will need to be removed from under the DS cartridge slot. you will see one more cross head screw to the left.Īfter removing this last cross head screw, remove the Wi-Fi antenna (black cable) and the microphone cable (white cable) from the motherboard. Once you have removed all of the screws, you can remove the back casing of the DS to reveal the back of the motherboard. In the pictures below, I am using a DS Lite however, the mod is practically identical for the orginal “fat” DS. First thing is first, lets disassamble the Nintendo DS. You will need the following to do this mod: So with the main issue being “you need light in order to see the screen”, this mod will allow you to use the Nintendo DS’ bright backlit screen to play your Gameboy Advance games wherever you are, regardless of light conditions! The main issue with the old Gameboys is that the screens had no light to them! Well not until the Gameboy Advance SP but let’s pretend you forgot that one. If you’re like me, there’s nothing like playing the classic games from your childhood like Mario, Pokemon and Zelda alike. Back in the day, I would spend countless amounts of hours on these, all from the comfort of the back seat in a car on long road trips. In this tutorial I am going to walk you through reusing an old/broken Nintendo DS or DS Lite for playing your old Gameboy Advance games on a much brighter and clearer screen.
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